Colour-Changing Dresses + Other Viral Moments from Paris Fashion Week

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Emily Turner

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Plus, Heliot Emil set Paris on fire…literally.

We’re in the home stretch of fashion month and that means one thing: Paris fashion week is underway. At the Fall 2023 ready-to-wear shows, the focus for many storied houses was on looking to the future by paying tribute to the past. Honouring the house’s heritage was à la mode at Dior, where creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri revamped the house’s iconic silhouettes, and Saint Laurent, where Anthony Vaccarello looked to the house’s couture heritage for inspiration.

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Paco Rabanne creative director Julien Dossena honoured the late designer’s legacy by exploring fabrics, forms and textures the way Mr. Rabanne famously did. Speaking of utilizing unique fabrics, the runways of Paris saw dresses made of colour-changing knits, cut-out foliage and even fire (yes, fire).

Read on for more of what you might’ve missed at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2023.

Acne Studios: Posion Ivy realness

On March 1, Acne Studios transported show-goers to a dark, fantastical forest to show a collection rooted in (see what we did there?) nature. Thanks to Swedish creative director Jonny Johansson, the elaborate set was decorated with wickedly twisted trees covered in strands of sparkling crystals and exploding futuristic flora. A somber band of wood nymphs stomped the winding runway in form-hugging dresses with crocheted flowers sprouting from the fabric and a patchwork of leaf cutouts that would be a no-brainer for a certain Batman villainess. “I’ve always enjoyed the contrast between urban life and nature, the idea that an infinite forest is just around the corner,” explained Johansson on Instagram.

Anrealage: Let there be light

A dress that changes colour IRL? No, this isn’t another “The Dress” situation but strategic scientific trickery. Using a moving UV light, Anrealage’s Fall 2023 collection transformed from basic to breathtaking, revealing vibrant colours and patterns hidden under plain white ensembles. While this use of tech isn’t new for the brand, it was the first time it was done with such heavy fabrics like velvets, laces, knits and jacquards.

Dior: Blast from the past

Can you ever repeat the past? Not according to Nick Caraway, but Dior agrees with Jay Gatsby. For its Fall 2023 collection, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri reconstructed timeless Dior silhouettes for the modern woman. Presented along a downright magical purple runway, models came out in ladylike blouses, midi skirts and coats, but the details made it trendy. Think sheer fabric, shiny leathers and ombre knits.

Heliot Emil: Fire away

Heliot Emil set Paris Fashion Week on fire…literally. For its Fall 2023 presentation, the Danish designer sent a male model down the runway wearing a black ensemble engulfed in real-life flames. Rest assured, the outfit was created with fire-proof techwear, so no one was injured, but we couldn’t help but be reminded of this iconic costume from The Hunger Games.

Schiaparelli: Head first

Schiaparelli is not known for being casual. A must-see during Couture Week, creative director Daniel Roseberry has become fashion’s golden boy for his surrealist (and sometimes downright questionable, as seen last season with the animal-head dresses) approach to design. So think of the brand’s first-ever foray into ready-to-wear as a diet version of the above. Models were modestly dressed in almost exclusively all black, white and gold — a Schiaparelli staple — and looked more cocktail-ready than everyday essentials.